The Waitrose biscuit tin is a copy in miniature of John Campbell’s range. The contrast between his idiosyncratic croft kitchen and the pre-fabricated anonymity of the closest branch of the up-market supermarket chain in Stirling 280 miles away is sharp. The warmth of the Hebridean kitchen does not only come from the peat-fuelled stove. Biscuits- and strong brewed tea- play their part too. They are immediately offered on entering and, whether wanted or not, a refusal cannot be contemplated, even if it is the fourth such offer at as many croft kitchens that afternoon.